

Since Martha Washington’s appearance on George Washington’s Inauguration Day, the fashion choices of the First Ladies have been closely observed, analyzed, and symbolically presented. From the beginning of the nation’s presidential history, the styles worn by these women have not only highlighted their personal tastes but also their political stances, images, and even the era in which they served alongside their partners.
For instance, in 1860, Mary Todd Lincoln, wife of Abraham Lincoln, often made wardrobe choices that made a statement about the time period in which she lived. During her husband’s presidency, she frequently wore garments designed by Elizabeth Keckley, a formerly enslaved woman who then became a well-known seamstress. Ever since Lincoln met Keckley on the day of her husband’s inauguration, their shared fashion visions were prominent over the years of his term. Mary Todd Lincoln’s consistent choice to wear Keckley’s designs was an impactful, though understated, nod to her advocacy for the abolition of slavery, a moral she shared with her husband. This also further reinforced the union’s resolve during the Civil War.
Similarly, Helen Taft’s contribution to the historical analysis of First Lady fashion cannot be overlooked. In 1909, after her husband’s inaugural ball, she donated her gown to the Smithsonian National Museum, the first official donation of a First Lady’s inaugural attire. Ever since, the museum has continued to collect the gowns of every First Lady, each piece telling a different story of changing cultural norms and personal expression.
In more recent times, Dr. Jill Biden’s fashion choices have sparked interest for their deep, unity-focused symbolism. During her husband’s inauguration, Dr. Biden wore a cashmere coat embroidered with federal flowers, representing all 50 states and U.S. territories. Not only was this a beautifully designed garment, but it also nodded to the unity of the nation, a commitment to inclusivity at a time of political division. Claudia Taylor Johnson, wife of Lyndon B. Johnson made history by becoming the first First Lady to hold the Bible during her husband’s presidential oath of office in 1965. Wearing a red-wool coat and hat, a gesture of patriotism in addition to a representation of boldness. One of the most discussed First Lady fashion moments was Michelle Obama’s decision to wear a white Jason Wu for the inaugural ball in 2009, a choice to support an emerging American designer. However, her choice of wearing sage green J. Crew gloves during the inauguration ceremony was a nod to her and her husband’s approachability and relatability, staying in touch with the American public.
In the most recent inauguration, Jill Biden again made a statement, opting for a bipartisan purple outfit, designed by Ralph Lauren. A blend of blue and red, the color was another unifying choice in a nation that is arguably more polarized than ever. This subtly suggests her desire to bridge the partisan divides, promoting cooperation in a moment of tense political atmospheres.
Lastly, the evolution of Melania Trump’s fashion throughout her time as First Lady is unique in its own way. Her powder blue cashmere dress worn at her husband’s 2017 inauguration was noted for its nod to Jackie Kennedy’s iconic style back in 1960. Over time, however, Melania’s wardrobe has been noticed to have taken a more structured, military-inspired turn, with strong shoulders, sharper cuts, and a more formal aesthetic.
Each of these women’s choices have offered insight into the individual First Ladies themselves, providing a closer look of the cultural atmospheres of their respective times. From color choices to their designers, these women have used fashion to transcend beyond personal expression.